Armouring Frame Technique: Strengthen and Restore Nails with PUG Fortify
Planet Nails — Professional Education
Armouring Frame
Technique
A complete guide for students & qualified nail technicians
The Fundamentals
What Is the Armouring Frame Technique?
Armouring is the process of reinforcing the free edge and stress points of the nail using a thick, structural hard gel. Rather than adding bulk across the entire nail, the goal is targeted strength — protecting the most vulnerable areas and creating a durable foundation that resists lifting, breakage, and damage over time. It can be performed on any nail type, regardless of whether restoration is also required.
Know the Difference
Restoration
A temporary architectural change — correcting curves, lifting a downward free edge, or elongating short nails. Always requires a protective hard gel overlay. Changes the nail’s natural shape to improve structure and strength.
Armouring
Reinforcing the nail to protect it long-term. Can be performed alongside restoration, or independently on healthy nails that simply need added strength. Focuses on the free edge and stress areas — not the entire nail plate.
Why Use It?
Dramatically Reduces Lifting
A sealed, reinforced free edge is the #1 way to boost retention — especially on short or weak nails.
Targeted, Not Bulky
Thickness is placed exactly where it’s needed. No unnecessary bulk across the nail plate.
Versatile
Works for restoration cases and as a standalone service for healthy nails that need extra resilience.
Works With All Overlays
Pairs seamlessly with dual forms or standard hard gel overlay techniques.
Application
Step-by-Step Technique
01
Prep & Prime
Shape and lightly buff the natural nail. Apply your chosen primer — Nail Prep, Sticky Bond, or Primer — based on client needs. Apply a soak-off base (Lastik Clear or Stick ’n Float).
02
Build the Frame
Using PUG Fortify, pull gel toward you to slightly extend and seal the free edge. The thick viscosity holds position. This forms the armouring frame — the structural foundation.
03
Cure the Frame
Cure for 60 sec (405nm) or 2 min (365nm) under the PN Speciality Dual Cure Lamp. The frame is now set and ready for the next stage of the service.
04
Build Architecture
Apply gel for the overlay, restoration, or dual form extension. If a pronounced apex is needed for plate alignment, build this now. Cure fully.
05
Refine & Seal
File, shape, and refine. Seal the underside of the free edge for maximum durability. Finish with your chosen top coat or colour service.
Product Spotlight
Why PUG Fortify
Is the Perfect Choice
PUG Fortify was specifically formulated for armouring, restoration, and dual form techniques. Its thick, non-self-levelling viscosity means it stays exactly where you place it — no spreading, no thinning out over the free edge.
Cure Time 60 sec at 405nm · 2 min at 365nm — PN Speciality Dual Cure Lamp
Colour Milky White — soft French look or clean natural base
Removal Hard/permanent gel — must be filed off
Recommended Base Lastik Clear or Stick ’n Float Rubber Base
Free Edge Armouring
Reinforce the free edge on any nail type to boost retention and resist breakage.
Nail Restoration
Correct curves, extend short nails, restore proper nail architecture with precision.
Dual Forms
Build flawless custom extensions with the control that thick viscosity provides.
Soft French Look
The milky white formula delivers that elegant, on-trend natural French finish.
Troubleshooting
Common Issues & How to Fix Them
Problem
Lifting at the free edge
Solution
Ensure the underside of the free edge is properly sealed during application and filing. Check prep — the natural nail must be clean, dry, and free of moisture or oils. Primer selection matters: match to client’s nail type.
Problem
Gel spreading too much before cure
Solution
PUG Fortify is designed to hold position, but warm hands or a warm environment can soften any gel. Work in a cooler environment, or cure sooner after placement. Always pull gel toward you when building the frame.
Problem
Frame feels thin or weak after curing
Solution
Insufficient product was applied to the free edge. The frame needs adequate thickness to function as armouring. Build a second pass if needed before full cure, ensuring the underside is sealed. Don’t over-file the frame down.
Problem
Incomplete cure / sticky inhibition layer
Solution
Check lamp output and ensure the correct cure time is used (60 sec 405nm / 2 min 365nm). A sticky inhibition layer is normal with hard gel — it’s removed during filing and refining, not an indication of incomplete cure.
Problem
Breakage at the stress point
Solution
Distribute thickness appropriately — the apex and stress area should carry the most product. Armouring frames must include this stress zone, not just the very tip. Review nail architecture and adjust gel placement.
Problem
Client requests removal by soaking
Solution
PUG Fortify is a permanent/hard gel — it cannot be soaked off. Communicate this clearly at consultation. A soak-off base (Lastik Clear or Stick ’n Float) underneath allows the soft gel layers to be removed, but the hard gel must be filed.
★ Pro Tips from Planet Nails
Always reinforce the free edge — even on healthy nails with normal architecture. Prevention is easier than repair.
Use Lastik Clear or Stick ’n Float Rubber Base underneath Fortify so the base layers remain soak-off for easier maintenance.
When both restoration and armouring are needed, complete the armouring frame first, cure, then build the restoration overlay.
Primer choice matters — match Nail Prep, Sticky Bond, or Primer to the client’s nail type for optimal adhesion.
Book regular fills — hard gel reinforcement loses effectiveness over time as the free edge grows out.
For dual forms with Fortify, the thick viscosity gives you full control to shape without the product slumping.
